Traveling Beans

Bloggin' Ghana

Well I have been guilty of the worst sin one can commit in this community of traveling students…and that is not contributing to the blog. So to repent…I am going to give a through update…the trouble is where to start.

Since my last entry…I’ve left the United Kingdom for a warmer, sunnier, and more tropical climate. The Blackstar state of Africa, or Ghana, is perhaps one of the most beautiful countries I have visited…and being that I’ve only seen a handful…my word doesn’t mean much. However, that said, I am part of a long line of travelers to have ranked Ghana high on their favorite places list…including W.E.B. DuBois…who loved it here so much he decided to spend the last few years of his life in Accra.

Ghana is a difficult place to explain. Like many countries on this continent, Ghana has a long complex history. So I want to say here that I don’t claim to be any authority of Ghanian culture, history, or life…because I’m still slowly taking in the sights and understanding it all my self.

Being here has been powerful. For one, it has placed a lot into perspective for me. I think there is a tendency to clump African countries into one group…as if all countries on this continent have the same culture, language, and history. The truth is, there is so much diversity within regions, countries, and even towns and cities, that when that generalization is made…it can misses a lot. Ghana in itself has a great deal of diversity within its borders. Although everyone is Ghanaian, there are a number of tribes within the different regions, and there is even a great deal of religious difference. For example, just in the greater Accra region, there are a number of languages spoken. Aside from English, people within Accra also speak Twi, Ga, and Ewe. This diversity in language has to do with the diversity of tribes that lived within Ghana before it became a state. As you can imagine, it makes things a little confusing, but I have four months here and I intend to get it down, because I have no excuse not to. I think the first step is pronouncing “Twi” correctly(it’s like chu-wee…but a lot more complicated)…and then maybe I’ll finally get “Tro Tro.”

It’s been a challenge, in short. Aside from battling the local diseases that “Oboruni’s” (white people/foreigners) get, like Malaria and stomach parasites, I’ve also been struggling to get used to the city. Unlike other cities on this continent like Lagos or Cape Town, Accra is very much still developing. It’s a city of vast urban sprawl…expanding a great distance in all directions. Although it has a city center, it’s a lose interpretation and really doesn’t centralize anything. Also, as a developing nation, commodities that I’ve taken for granted are hard to come by. Clean and safe water is something that most people don’t have, waste management is handled in an unusual way, and public transportation is not nearly as convenient as hoping on a 6 train downtown. That said, it has been interesting to see the ways that these things are fulfilled.

Large containers, called poly tanks, can be found in central areas of some of the “shanty-towns” that don’t have running water. These containers are filled with water, and for the equivalent of 5 cents, people can fill buckets for bath and cleaning water. In the evening, people fill up buckets and take their bucket baths over the open drainages, very much in public. Although this isn’t something you’d see in the “developed world,” it’s everyday reality for people here. What’s interesting for me is to see the way communities resolve a commodity that is normally provide by the municipality or state. It’s also interesting to see how tight knit the communities are. One would never dream of dressing down on the corner of a New York City street to take a bucket bath, but here it’s a natural, and even communal event. Everyone takes a bath on the street at sunset together; it’s one giant extended family gathering. Truly an amazing thing to witness.

The lack of waste management does create a huge problem within the city (and country for that matter). There is no municipal trash collection, and sewage disposal is far from sanitary. Most people resort to burning their garbage, because they can’t afford to pay the few private trash collection agencies (that end up taking the garbage somewhere out of site and burning the garbage for you). As for the sewage disposal; sewage trucks take the human waste to a beach area near Jamestown (one of the “lower income” “shanty-towns”) and dump the waste into the sea. Yes, this does cause health problems in Jamestown, and I wouldn’t recommend swimming in the beaches near that area.

Public transportation is solved by an intricate system of Tro-Tro’s, Joining Taxi and Drop-in Taxi’s. The cheapest (and more social) option are the Tro-Tro’s that are small vans that seat 9 people comfortably and 15 people for a more communal experience. This is my favorite choice because you normally get very close to your fellow commuter and get to meet some colorful people. However, this is not the safest option. Most of the Tro-Tro drives act like the roads of Ghana are the American Wild West and push the limits and rules of the road in every possible way. Sometimes, both the passengers and drivers lose out; the Tro-Tro’s have been known to flip over. It’s a risk, but normally this is a safe way to travel throughout the city, although it’s not recommended for long distances because of the cramped conditions and safety issue. As for taxi’s, they’re more expensive and less fun, especially when you have to bargain with the drive so you don’t get ripped off (although I secretly like these interactions as they bring out the best in both me and the drivers…especially if you approach the situation with a little humor).

I have to admit that it was a bit of a shock to see how underdeveloped Ghana is, and I say this at the risk of sounding like a tight ass American tourist. Yet, once you learn the different social rules and norms, and learn to let go of the comforts and convince of America (or whatever other western world you just landed from) you really begin to appreciate the humor, warmth, and kindness of this country. In many ways, it makes some of the more annoying things, like traffic, rude taxi drivers, and the constant “Oboruni!!” calls, less annoying. And lets face it, there’s traffic, rude taxi drivers, and call outs everywhere, in fact it’s more likely to happen in New York than in Accra.

In addition to Accra, I’ve been to Kumasi, which is a beautiful city in the interior of Ghana. In theory, Kumasi should be a four-hour road trip north from Accra. In reality, it’s about eight hours; one hour out of Accra (because of traffic) about six hours travel time (because of poorly paved roads) and one hour getting into Kumasi (because of traffic). Despite the long journey (which is also very social and communal, like the Tro-Tro), the trip immediately pays off when you step into Kumasi. It’s a slower paced more centralized city than Accra. It’s easier to manage because it’s not so big and the people seem to be less intense and friendlier. It could be compared to the difference between New York City and Philadelphia. Although there isn’t much to see and do directly in Kumasi, a trip to the central market on market day is enough action and adventure to fill your trip. It’s supposedly the largest Markey in West Africa, which I can easily believe. Once you jump in, you have no choice but to move forward. The market is divided into different sections that sell different things: sunglasses, bras, underwear go together; meat, fish, and poultry are grouped the same way; and spices, herbs, and things of that such can be found in the same area; and lastly the fabrics, crafts, and art goods are in the same vicinity of each other. This of course is a treat for all the senses. You smell thing you’ve never smelled, ranging from sweet, foul, spicy, to flavorful. You see animals in their worst way; skinned goats, tied up ducks, mutilated chickens. People call out to you to buy things or just to see if they can get the foreigner to turn their head in their direction. Music blasts from all directions. Colorful cloths, fabrics, beads and crafts are placed within eyesight to draw in the wandering customer. It’s truly Ghana at it’s best.

I also had an opportunity to watch Kumasi’s futbol team play a qualifying match for the national premier league. This was also a treat for the senses, but also an amazing display of community solidarity. It seemed as if the entire city came out in force to support Kumasi. It was an intense match, and to be honest much more entertaining than the English style of play because players seem to be more aggressive, take more risks, and seemed to add some style to their dribbling. In the end Kumasi won the match on penalty kick and the city was loud with celebration for most of the evening. I left Kumasi with a Kotoko (the name of the team, I think it means porcupine) jersey, some tasty highlife and reggae records, and a sense that I would come back soon.

Back in Accra things are becoming increasingly familiar. I’m slowly finding little pleasures in the way of life here and beginning to appreciate and enjoy my time here. By some divine manipulation of fate, I’ve met with the other Watson Fellow here in Accra…completely by accident. Although us fellows shouldn’t be socializing too much, I have to admit that it’s been a blessing to share sometime with Bennett. Meeting him has comforted me on some of my difficulties, has helped me to see the hard times in a more humorous light, and has given me a new friend in this truly global adventure. He’s a kind soul with a good head on his shoulders, and it makes me excited to meet the other Watson Fellows come August. So far I can say that two fellows are truly amazing individuals, as I know Hilary personally and have become fast friends with Bennett. I can’t imagine what the other fellows are like. It’s difficult…most of the time, however chance meetings with blessed individuals always makes it easy to find things to laugh about. Ghanaian’s have a much better sense of humor than most people I’ve come across. I suppose when life is this busy, this active, this colorful, this flavorful, there is very little not to laugh and be happy about. People here seem to find the little slices of paradise to help navigate through a country that has seen some rough days. Although the quality of life is not the best, the value of life here is high. People know how to enjoy themselves, despite the difficult things they have to work through. It reminds me a great deal of Cuba in that respect.

As for me, I know that things will probably get more difficult before they get easier. The holidays are coming soon…and as much as I try to suck it up, I can’t help but miss the nice crisp fall air, Mom’s delicious thanksgiving dinner, the warmth of home, the laughter I share with my Jacqueline and Daniel, and the comfort of knowing that so many people love you as you are. Although I know this is always going to be there for me, I wouldn’t mind a little of it right now. But despite the lingering feeling of homesickness, I know that I have been blessed. The things I see here are some of the most real, tangible, beautiful, and vibrant things I have ever witnessed in my life. It makes me appreciate the things I miss so much more and truly humbles me to a point were I now understand that despite the hardships my family has gone through, nothing really compares to the reality that many people face everyday. This, I would never trade, for anything.

So, I hope this update repents for my sins. I promise to be a more active traveling bean blogger from here on out. I’ve been struggling with things, but am slowly starting to feel like my self again…or maybe feel like a new person. In either case, my creative juices are flowing again and I think I can say that I will contribute some more to this project. I miss my friends so much. Hilary, I’ve been praying for you. I saw how the hurricane hit Guatemala and it’s made me worry about you a little. But I know you’re strong and I know that you’re at the exact places you’re suppose to be…so I pray that you’re creating small miracles along the way. Nicole, I here Kiwi Land is a wicked place to be, and I hope that you’re having as much fun as I’ve been told you can have there. Live it up four the four of us. And to Jackie…my love, well…you know how much I miss you. I’m excited to share my adventure with you in January and excited to create our own adventures, but until then…know that siempre estas en mi corazon. Before I leave I wanted to ask the group if it would be ok to invite a new traveling bean to the mix. Bennett is a cool dude and I think you’d all very much like him. He’s comes from the same stuff we do, and I think he would love to be apart of this community. If it’s cool with all…I’ll speak to him and let him know how to join. Till next time…love to all.

posted by Radio Ríos @ 2:19 AM